Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto
La extensión de la vida útil o del tiempo de uso de las prendas de vestir es una forma de enfrentar el incremento del impacto ambiental en la industria de la moda, derivado de la aceleración en la demanda y el descarte de los productos. El objetivo de este estudio fue identificar las variables invol...
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- Tipo de recurso:
- Fecha de publicación:
- 2022
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https://doi.org/10.17151/kepes.2023.20.27.5
- Palabra clave:
- Moda
diseño
sostenibilidad
durabilidad
obsolescencia
vida útil
Fashion
design
product life cycle
sustainability
durability
obsolescence
lifespan
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Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto Design factors in the premature disuse of clothing: an approach from the product life cycle phases |
| title |
Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto |
| spellingShingle |
Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto Moda diseño sostenibilidad durabilidad obsolescencia vida útil Fashion design product life cycle sustainability durability obsolescence lifespan |
| title_short |
Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto |
| title_full |
Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto |
| title_fullStr |
Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto |
| title_full_unstemmed |
Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto |
| title_sort |
Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del producto |
| dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv |
Moda diseño sostenibilidad durabilidad obsolescencia vida útil Fashion design product life cycle sustainability durability obsolescence lifespan |
| topic |
Moda diseño sostenibilidad durabilidad obsolescencia vida útil Fashion design product life cycle sustainability durability obsolescence lifespan |
| description |
La extensión de la vida útil o del tiempo de uso de las prendas de vestir es una forma de enfrentar el incremento del impacto ambiental en la industria de la moda, derivado de la aceleración en la demanda y el descarte de los productos. El objetivo de este estudio fue identificar las variables involucradas en el desuso prematuro de las prendas de vestir casuales con el fin de ser intervenidas por el diseño a lo largo de sus etapas. Esto, a través de un enfoque cualitativo en el que se aplicaron entrevistas a representantes de empresas y consumidoras de la ciudad de Bucaramanga y su área metropolitana, además de observaciones en los entornos de venta digitales de marcas nacionales. Lo anterior, con el fin de identificar las acciones y declaraciones de las marcas en torno a la durabilidad y su relación con los criterios de compra de las consumidoras, así como las motivaciones para la retención y el descarte de prendas de vestir. Los hallazgos muestran que el foco de los esfuerzos de las marcas se encuentra en la robustez de los materiales y la oferta de prendas atemporales basadas en el minimalismo, el uso de técnicas de producción manuales y artesanales, así como la construcción de una identidad estética de marca reconocible. Por su parte, la comodidad representó el principal criterio de compra, y de decisión de retener o descartar una prenda para las consumidoras, mientras que la calidad o robustez no presentó mayor influencia en estos escenarios. Estos resultados permiten visualizar oportunidades para la innovación mediante la aplicación del diseño, a partir de la empatía con el usuario. |
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2022 |
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2022-01-01 2023-01-01T00:00:00Z 2023-01-01T00:00:00Z 2025-10-08T21:36:20Z 2025-10-08T21:36:20Z |
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144 27 105 20 Kepes Armstrong, C. M., Niinimäki, K., & Lang, C. (2016). Towards Design Recipes to Curb the Clothing Carbohydrate Binge. Design Journal, 19 (1), 159–181. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2016.1109207 BlakSip. (2020). Reporte de la industria: el e-commerce en Colombia 2020. Brydges, T. (2018). “Made in Canada”: Local production networks in the Canadian fashion industry. Canadian Geographer, 62(2), 238-249. https://doi.org/10.1111/cag.12400 Capuz-Rizo, S. F. (1999). Introducción al proyecto de producción. Ingeniería concurrente para el diseño de producto. Editorial Universidad Politécnica de Valencia. Ceballos, L. M. y Min, S. (2020). Product experiences of clothing attachment in baby boomers in the United States. Fashion and Textiles, 7(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-020-0206-0 Chapman, J. (2009). Design for (Emotional) Durability. Design Issues, 25 (4). http://direct.mit.edu/desi/article-pdf/25/4/29/1714666/desi.2009.25.4.29.pdf Chapman, J. (2021). Meaningful stuff: Design that lasts. The MIT Press. Cobbing, M. y Vicaire, Y. (2016). Timeout for fast fashion Timeout for fast fashion. GREENPEACE. Connor-Crabb, A., Miller, K. y Chapman, J. (2016). Design Strategies for the Eternal Reoccurrence of the New. Fashion Practice, 8(1), 22-43. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2016.1147806 Cooper, T. (2010). Longer lasting products: alternatives to the throwaway society. Routledge. Cooper, T., Hill, H., Kininmonth, J., Townsend, K. y Hughes, M. (2013). Design for Longevity: Guidance on Increasing the Active Life of Clothing. WRAP Working together for a world without waste. Cox, J., Griffith, S., Giorgi, S. y King, G. (2013). Consumer understanding of product lifetimes. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 79, 21-29. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2013.05.003 Degenstein, L. M., McQueen, R. H., McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., Wakes, S. J. y Dunn, L. A. (2020). Impact of physical condition on disposal and end-of-life extension of clothing. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(6), 586-596. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12590 Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Ellen MacArthur Foundation e IDEO. (2017). The Circular Design Guide. https:/www.circulardesignguide.com Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259-265. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810x12774625387594 Fletcher, K., Grose, Lynda. (2012). Fashion sustainability: Design for change. Laurence King Pub. Fletcher, K. (2017). Exploring demand reduction through design, durability and “usership” of fashion clothes. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 375(2095). https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2016.0366 González, T. (2017). Colombia recicla moda en grandes cifras. Fashion -network-. https://pe.fashionnetwork.com/news/Colombia-recicla-moda-en-grandes-cifras,850794.html Goworek, H., Oxborrow, L., Claxton, S., McLaren, A., Cooper, T. y Hill, H. (2020). Managing sustainability in the fashion business: Challenges in product development for clothing longevity in the UK. Journal of Business Research, 117, 629-641. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.07.021 INEXMODA, RADDAR y SECTORIAL. (2022). Observatorio de moda. Enero 2022. http://www.saladeprensainexmoda.com/informe-del-sector-enero-2022/ Joyner, C. M., Kang, J. y Lang, C. (2018). Clothing style confidence: The development and validation of a multidimensional scale to explore product longevity. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 17(6), 553-568. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1739 Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 510-519. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12127 Klepp, I. G. y Bjerck, M. (2014). A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: Wardrobe studies. International Journal of Social Research Methodology, 17(4), 373-386. https://doi.org/10.1080/13645579.2012.737148 Kwon, T. A., Choo, H. J. y Kim, Y. K. (2020). Why do we feel bored with our clothing and where does it end up? International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(1), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12540 Laitala, K., Boks, C. y Grimstad, I. (2015). Making Clothing Last: A Design Approach for Reducing the Environmental Impacts. International Journal of Design, 9(2). www.ijdesign.org Laitala, K., Klepp, I. G., Haugrønning, V., Throne-Holst, H., Strandbakken, P. (2021). Increasing repair of household appliances, mobile phones and clothing: Experiences from consumers and the repair industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 282. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125349 Lang, C., Armstrong, C. M. y Brannon, L. A. (2013). Drivers of clothing disposal in the US: An exploration of the role of personal attributes and behaviours in frequent disposal. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37(6), 706-714. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12060 Legere, A. y Kang, J. (2020). The role of self-concept in shaping sustainable consumption: A model of slow fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, 258, 120699. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.120699 (López 2012). “El impacto ambiental del fash fashion pronta moda”. En: Revista Académica e Institucional, Arquetipo de la UCP, 4: Paginas 71 a 79 McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., McQueen, R. H., Degenstein, L., Wakes, S., Garrett, T. C. y Dunn, L. (2020). Waste not want not: Behavioural intentions toward garment life extension practices, the role of damage, brand and cost on textile disposal. Journal of Cleaner Production, 260. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.121026 McNeill, L. S. y Snowdon, J. (2019). Slow fashion – Balancing the conscious retail model within the fashion marketplace. Australasian Marketing Journal, 27(4), 215-223. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ausmj.2019.07.005 Mink, P., Bay, S., Petrizzi, R. y Gill, P. (2015). The Why of the Buy: Consumer behavior and Fashion Marketing. Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Naciones Unidas. (12 de abril de 2019). El costo ambiental de estar a la moda. Noticias ONU. https://news.un.org/es/story/2019/04/1454161 Niinimäki, K. y Armstrong, C. (2013). From pleasure in use to preservation of meaningful memories: A closer look at the sustainability of clothing via longevity and attachment. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 6(3), 190-199. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2013.825737 Niinimäki, K. y Koskinen, L. (2011). I love this dress, if makes me feel beautiful! Empathic knowledge in sustainable design. Design Journal, 14(2), 165-186. https://doi.org/10.2752/175630611X12984592779962 Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. y Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth and Environment, 1, 189-200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9 Orozco, J. A. y Ferré, C. (2012). El ADN de la marca. La concepción de sus valores intangibles en un contexto dialogado. Signo y Pensamiento, 31(61), 56-71. RADDAR, INEXMODA y SECTORIAL. (2021). Observatorio Sistema Moda Julio 2021. https://www.inexmoda.org.co/informe-julio-2021/#:~:text=En%20julio%20el%20gasto%20en,el%20mismo%20periodo%20de%202019. Rathinamoorthy, R. (2019). Circular fashion. Circular Economy in Textiles and Apparel, 13-48. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-08-102630-4.00002-9 Saldaña, J. (2009). The coding manual for qualitative researchers. Sage. Stark, J. (2018). Decision Engineering. Product Lifecycle Management (Volume 3): The Executive Summary. http://www.springer.com/series/5112 UN Fashion Alliance. (2021). The Clothing and Textile Industry Today. https://unfashionalliance.org/ Vijaya, V., Aparanjini, D. y Lahari, G. (2017). Impact of Gender on Consumer Purchasing Behaviour. IOSR-JBM, 19(8), 33-36. DOI: 10.9790/487X-1908053336 Wang, Y., Tian, H., Sarigöllü, E. y Xu, W. (2020). Nostalgia prompts sustainable product disposal. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 19(6), 570-580. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1832 Whitson-Smith, J. (2019). Motivations and barriers to the prolonged use of clothing. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 9(1), 109-124. https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb.9.1.109_1 Wijetunga, D. (2020). “Throwaway” consumption in a consumerist society: Evidence from a developing country. Business Strategy and Development, 3(1), 55-63. https://doi.org/10.1002/bsd2.78 WRAP. (2017a). Love Your Clothes. https://www.loveyourclohes.org.uk WRAP. (2017b). Sustainable clothing: a practical guide to enhancing clothing durability and quality. June. Zafarmand, S. J., Sugiyama, K. y Watanabe, M. (2003). Aesthetic and Sustainability: The Aesthetic Attributes Promoting Product Sustainability. The Journal of Sustainable Product Design, 3(3-4), 173-186. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10970-005-6157-0 Núm. 27 , Año 2023 : Enero - Junio https://revistasojs.ucaldas.edu.co/index.php/kepes/article/download/8038/6836 |
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Factores de diseño en el desuso prematuro de prendas de vestir: un enfoque desde las etapas de vida del productoDesign factors in the premature disuse of clothing: an approach from the product life cycle phasesModadiseñosostenibilidaddurabilidadobsolescenciavida útilFashiondesignproduct life cyclesustainabilitydurabilityobsolescencelifespanLa extensión de la vida útil o del tiempo de uso de las prendas de vestir es una forma de enfrentar el incremento del impacto ambiental en la industria de la moda, derivado de la aceleración en la demanda y el descarte de los productos. El objetivo de este estudio fue identificar las variables involucradas en el desuso prematuro de las prendas de vestir casuales con el fin de ser intervenidas por el diseño a lo largo de sus etapas. Esto, a través de un enfoque cualitativo en el que se aplicaron entrevistas a representantes de empresas y consumidoras de la ciudad de Bucaramanga y su área metropolitana, además de observaciones en los entornos de venta digitales de marcas nacionales. Lo anterior, con el fin de identificar las acciones y declaraciones de las marcas en torno a la durabilidad y su relación con los criterios de compra de las consumidoras, así como las motivaciones para la retención y el descarte de prendas de vestir. Los hallazgos muestran que el foco de los esfuerzos de las marcas se encuentra en la robustez de los materiales y la oferta de prendas atemporales basadas en el minimalismo, el uso de técnicas de producción manuales y artesanales, así como la construcción de una identidad estética de marca reconocible. Por su parte, la comodidad representó el principal criterio de compra, y de decisión de retener o descartar una prenda para las consumidoras, mientras que la calidad o robustez no presentó mayor influencia en estos escenarios. Estos resultados permiten visualizar oportunidades para la innovación mediante la aplicación del diseño, a partir de la empatía con el usuario.The extension of the lifetime or time of use of garments is a way to face the increase in the environmental impact in the fashion industry, derived from the acceleration in demand and the discarding of products. The objective of this study was to identify the variables involved in the premature disuse of casual clothing in order to be intervened by design throughout its stages. This, through a qualitative approach in which interviews were applied to representatives of companies and consumers in the city of Bucaramanga and its metropolitan area as well as observations in the digital sales environments of national brands. The foregoing with the aim of identifying actions and statements of brands egarding durability and its relationship with the purchasing criteria of the consumers, as well as the motivations for retention and discarding of garments. The findings show that the focus of the efforts is on the robustness of the materials and the timeless garments based on minimalism, the use of manual and artisan production technique as well as the construction of an aesthetic identity of recognizable brand. For its part, comfort represented the main purchase criterion as well as the criterion for the decision to retain or discard the product, while quality or robustness did not present a major influence in these scenarios. These results allow visualizing opportunities for innovation through the application of design based on empathy with the users.Universidad de Caldas2023-01-01T00:00:00Z2025-10-08T21:36:20Z2023-01-01T00:00:00Z2025-10-08T21:36:20Z2022-01-01Artículo de revistahttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501Textinfo:eu-repo/semantics/articleJournal articleinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_2df8fbb1application/pdf1794-7111https://repositorio.ucaldas.edu.co/handle/ucaldas/2449010.17151/kepes.2023.20.27.52462-8115https://doi.org/10.17151/kepes.2023.20.27.5https://revistasojs.ucaldas.edu.co/index.php/kepes/article/view/8038spa1442710520KepesArmstrong, C. M., Niinimäki, K., & Lang, C. (2016). Towards Design Recipes to Curb the Clothing Carbohydrate Binge. Design Journal, 19 (1), 159–181. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2016.1109207BlakSip. (2020). Reporte de la industria: el e-commerce en Colombia 2020.Brydges, T. (2018). “Made in Canada”: Local production networks in the Canadian fashion industry. Canadian Geographer, 62(2), 238-249. https://doi.org/10.1111/cag.12400Capuz-Rizo, S. F. (1999). Introducción al proyecto de producción. Ingeniería concurrente para el diseño de producto. Editorial Universidad Politécnica de Valencia.Ceballos, L. M. y Min, S. (2020). Product experiences of clothing attachment in baby boomers in the United States. Fashion and Textiles, 7(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-020-0206-0Chapman, J. (2009). Design for (Emotional) Durability. Design Issues, 25 (4). http://direct.mit.edu/desi/article-pdf/25/4/29/1714666/desi.2009.25.4.29.pdfChapman, J. (2021). Meaningful stuff: Design that lasts. The MIT Press.Cobbing, M. y Vicaire, Y. (2016). Timeout for fast fashion Timeout for fast fashion. GREENPEACE.Connor-Crabb, A., Miller, K. y Chapman, J. (2016). Design Strategies for the Eternal Reoccurrence of the New. Fashion Practice, 8(1), 22-43. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2016.1147806Cooper, T. (2010). Longer lasting products: alternatives to the throwaway society. Routledge.Cooper, T., Hill, H., Kininmonth, J., Townsend, K. y Hughes, M. (2013). Design for Longevity: Guidance on Increasing the Active Life of Clothing. WRAP Working together for a world without waste.Cox, J., Griffith, S., Giorgi, S. y King, G. (2013). Consumer understanding of product lifetimes. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 79, 21-29. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2013.05.003Degenstein, L. M., McQueen, R. H., McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., Wakes, S. J. y Dunn, L. A. (2020). Impact of physical condition on disposal and end-of-life extension of clothing. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(6), 586-596. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12590Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. Ellen MacArthur Foundation.Ellen MacArthur Foundation e IDEO. (2017). The Circular Design Guide. https:/www.circulardesignguide.comFletcher, K. (2010). Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259-265. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810x12774625387594Fletcher, K., Grose, Lynda. (2012). Fashion sustainability: Design for change. Laurence King Pub.Fletcher, K. (2017). Exploring demand reduction through design, durability and “usership” of fashion clothes. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 375(2095). https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2016.0366González, T. (2017). Colombia recicla moda en grandes cifras. Fashion -network-. https://pe.fashionnetwork.com/news/Colombia-recicla-moda-en-grandes-cifras,850794.htmlGoworek, H., Oxborrow, L., Claxton, S., McLaren, A., Cooper, T. y Hill, H. (2020). Managing sustainability in the fashion business: Challenges in product development for clothing longevity in the UK. Journal of Business Research, 117, 629-641. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.07.021INEXMODA, RADDAR y SECTORIAL. (2022). Observatorio de moda. Enero 2022. http://www.saladeprensainexmoda.com/informe-del-sector-enero-2022/Joyner, C. M., Kang, J. y Lang, C. (2018). Clothing style confidence: The development and validation of a multidimensional scale to explore product longevity. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 17(6), 553-568. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1739Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 510-519. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12127Klepp, I. G. y Bjerck, M. (2014). A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: Wardrobe studies. International Journal of Social Research Methodology, 17(4), 373-386. https://doi.org/10.1080/13645579.2012.737148Kwon, T. A., Choo, H. J. y Kim, Y. K. (2020). Why do we feel bored with our clothing and where does it end up? International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(1), 1-13. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12540Laitala, K., Boks, C. y Grimstad, I. (2015). Making Clothing Last: A Design Approach for Reducing the Environmental Impacts. International Journal of Design, 9(2). www.ijdesign.orgLaitala, K., Klepp, I. G., Haugrønning, V., Throne-Holst, H., Strandbakken, P. (2021). Increasing repair of household appliances, mobile phones and clothing: Experiences from consumers and the repair industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 282. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125349Lang, C., Armstrong, C. M. y Brannon, L. A. (2013). Drivers of clothing disposal in the US: An exploration of the role of personal attributes and behaviours in frequent disposal. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37(6), 706-714. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12060Legere, A. y Kang, J. (2020). The role of self-concept in shaping sustainable consumption: A model of slow fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, 258, 120699. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.120699(López 2012). “El impacto ambiental del fash fashion pronta moda”. En: Revista Académica e Institucional, Arquetipo de la UCP, 4: Paginas 71 a 79McNeill, L. S., Hamlin, R. P., McQueen, R. H., Degenstein, L., Wakes, S., Garrett, T. C. y Dunn, L. (2020). Waste not want not: Behavioural intentions toward garment life extension practices, the role of damage, brand and cost on textile disposal. Journal of Cleaner Production, 260. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.121026McNeill, L. S. y Snowdon, J. (2019). Slow fashion – Balancing the conscious retail model within the fashion marketplace. 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The Journal of Sustainable Product Design, 3(3-4), 173-186. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10970-005-6157-0Núm. 27 , Año 2023 : Enero - Juniohttps://revistasojs.ucaldas.edu.co/index.php/kepes/article/download/8038/6836https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2Ordóñez Suárez, DanielaHiguera Marín, Miguel EnriqueRaigoza Díaz, Carolinaoai:repositorio.ucaldas.edu.co:ucaldas/244902025-10-08T21:36:20Z |